TAYLOR ROY

Indian Creek Education

2012-03-05T19:01:00.000-07:00

This year I have been strangely compelled to work on my weaknesses and seek out the obscure and ignored. So keeping with these themes, I went to Indian Creek with Joe Mills and spent the weekend getting schooled by splitters and wandering along the base of neglected walls.

The first day, we went to the 2nd Meat wall. After warming up on a nice 5.10, Joe suggested that we jump on a stunning 12- called Camping Under the Influence.

10+ warm up. Anyone know the name?

Camping Under the Influence

At most areas 5.12 is a very comfortable grade, but at the creek it's my project. Especially, when the crux is a ring lock boulder problem right at the chains. So Joe styled up the crack, and I flailed on top rope, cursing through the last 20 feet. On my second go, I taped up, and tried to tap into the extra motivation that being on lead can provide, but still fell towards the end. Frustrated, I clean the route, and decided to enjoy the education that the Indian Creek was offering. Thus, the tone for the trip was set.

Me in my old man, anti-skin cancer outfit

The next thing on our agenda was a 12- off width called Carnivore.

Carnivore

Shamefully, in my 17 years of climbing I have never tried an off width crack so I was excited, curious, and a little nervous to hop on such a hard crack for my first taste of this style. Anyways, I headed up Tube Steak Tomorrow 10+, anchored in and brought Joe up. After exchanging gear, he headed toward the gaping roof with typical Joe Mills confidence, and then just below the roof gear issues, and sheer difficulty eventually added up and he slipped out of the maw.

Perplexed, he tried a number of permutations to the problem, until he gave up and aided the pitch. Apparently, Indian Creek was offering Joe an education too. I am sure he took some notes. With the sun low on the horizon and my legs numb from hanging for over an hour, we packed up, and headed back to camp.

Joe and Boone enjoying a moment.

The next day, we trudged up to the Disappointment Cliff to try a 13- finger crack called Winner Takes All.

Winner Takes All

Joe onsighted it with minimal issues and I found myself hanging on the rope, crippled with pain.

It was Indian Creek whispering climbing lessons to me again. It said, "tape up." So I did, and it felt much better.

With his confidence high, Joe wanted to try a 13+ ring lock crack called Hong Kong Fuey. So we slowly wandered left of Winner Takes All and eventually found it. What a beauty!

Unfortunately, we didn't have enough gear, so we headed back the other direction to find a 12+ called the Angry Inch. Eventually, we found a nice looking line with anchors so Joe headed up.

Not the Angry Inch.

About half way up with none of his inch sized gear fitting in the crack, he realized that we were on the wrong route. At about that time I noticed a plaque that indicated the route was called Dangerous Lesions. Ooops! After some heroic aiding effort, Joe reached the anchor. I tried top roping this thing but the tip jams, and fresh edges on the crack were way too painful. Not sure what the Creek was trying to tell me.

Completely humbled, we skied down the loose, dusty slope and enjoyed all the strange rock formations and animal tracks in the damp river bed that led back to the car.

Sunset at camp.

Found these tracks at camp.

Our last day was spent at the Battle of the Bulge trying to squeeze a bunch of pithces in before the 7 hour drive home. We quickly warmed up on Binou's Crack(5.8) and then cruised up the ultra classic Dos Hermanos(11+). Looking for a bigger challenge, we both went up Ruby's Cafe(13-). I had forgotten how thin and painful the jams were and struggled the whole way up my first go. This time Indian Creek told me that I need to wear better shoes on thin cracks, so I did and my second go was infinitely better, even though I was extremely tired. We ended our day with a super fun, thin hands crack called Crack Attack(11-).

As I was jamming up this climb, Indian Creek told me to forget about learning and just enjoy the movement and scenery. At the top, I silently promised to return for another lesson when my skin grew back.

Red Dihedral- Part 2

2012-01-31T10:05:00.002-07:00

A week after getting thoroughly worked on the Red Dihedral we returned with Celin Serbo, a friend and local photographer, to send the first pitch and get some shots on this beautiful route.

When we got to the base of the wall, another team was already racking up to try the same route! It's interesting how routes and areas go in and out of interest in the climbing community... I guess the Red Dihedral is hot this year!

Anyways, after a short chat, Greg and Lee graciously allowed us to climb on the route and they went off to do something else. Thanks boys!!!

So after flailing and aiding all over the place on my first try, I dug very deep on my second go and barely pinkpointed the first pitch. I have to say that at most modern climbing areas, this thing would probably be rated 13a or b.

Justen did very well on his first redpoint try but bobbled his beta and fell about 2/3 of the way up at the devious and insecure upper crux. After a short rest he tied back in, made it to his high point and heroically battled up and down four times at the upper crux before eking through to better holds. Nice job Justy!

Here are some of the amazing shots that Celin took that day. You can checkout more of his photography and videos at http://www.serbophoto.com/.

Justen at the rest above the lower crux section.

Me in the upper crux

Me palming like crazy at the end of the lower crux.

Justen Resting before the upper crux.

Justen getting into the rest.

Justen funking through the upper crux.

Me getting committed on the upper crux.

Me praying my feet stay on the upper crux.

Still praying...

Justen at the hard earned rest.

The Red Dihedral

2012-01-17T14:36:00.001-07:00

Some routes are on everyone's ticklist but never get done. They are stunning, classic, and proud, but something keeps people away. Maybe the approach is huge and difficult or it's notorious for being hard and scary. Sometimes it never gets done simply because there's no information about it. For whatever reason, years fly by, and other routes get crossed off the list, but these routes remain.

The Red Dihedral(5.12d) is one of those routes. I wanted to do this route 10 years ago, when I first moved to Boulder and saw a picture of it in the Eldorado Canyon guidebook. However, like most climbers new to Boulder, I got overwhelmed by the amount of climbing and sucked into sending convenient trade routes to alleviate the stress as economically as possible.

This year, I want to step outside of my comfortable sport climbing bubble and trad climb a bit more and the Red Dihedral seemed like the perfect choice. So, after putting it off for a decade, I nervously trudged up to the Mickey Mouse Wall and tried it with the perfect partener, Justen Sjong.

A view of the Red Dihedral from the ground. The first 30 feet is the crux and then it eases off just a bit. The crux is protected by a new bolt, a couple questionable pitons, a very good fixed stopper and a small, slightly rusty RP. Since the first piton keeps you off the ledge it's a good idea to supplement at least this piece,

Justen Sjong booting up.

Here are some pictures of Justen trying the upper bit of the crux dihedral section.

Besides the occasional face hold, this pitch contains lots of very insecure palming with your hands and smearing with your feet.

Justen getting his stem on!

Me mentally preparing to lead. I almost made it through the entire crux but fell just before the crack.

This thing is HARD! Neither of us made it to the top of the first pitch. This hyper-technical 80's testpeice is just another example of how bold and capable climbers were 30 years ago. With our nerves fried, we humbly cleaned our gear and vowed to return.

A final look at the pitch before we rapped off. With only two weeks left before the wall closes, I am very excited to get back to this pitch and send it. Maybe 2012 will be the year I finally clean up my ticklist...

Ager- Spain's Shelf Road

2012-01-09T17:06:00.000-07:00

I hate Shelf Road. Aside from a couple of good routes, I find the climbing unpleasant, and most of the lines a bit squeezed and contrived. I would rather climb at the gym than spend a day at Shelf. In fact, I would rather not climb. This said, somehow, I managed to spend my last climbing day in Spain at an area called Ager- Spain's Shelf Road.

The night before, we were looking through the guidebook trying to find an nice climbing area on the way to Barcelona. Ager had a good spread of grades, and lots of routes, but I could tell from the pictures that it was Shelf-like. Despite my strong protests, we ended up Ager.

On a positive note, the view is amazing. These are taken from the parking area.

The view from the cliff is even better

This was the first cliff we visited in Spain that didn't have hoards of people waiting for every route. Probably because the crag gets good in January and we were 2 months early. But we didn't know that, so we pushed on.

The crag is mostly vertical to slightly under with a short overhanging wave within the first 20 feet. Small, sharp crimps abound. Tufas and steep rock are seriously lacking at this crag.

The middle cliff was definitely the proudest cliff at Ager.

Lower right wall. The lack of chalk and visible holds made the 5.11's and 5.12's in the orange sections of this crag look like 5.15!

Cool ancient wall at the base of the wall.

Ted on some 12+ in the blazing sun. So hot! Temperature hot, I mean.

It was a hard day. Disappointed by the cliff, but still trying to climb, I went to put my "good" shoes on and ripped out the tongue!

Frustrated, I grabbed my camera and tried to find some beauty outside of the climbing. The most interesting thing I found was some wormwood.

We stopped at the obsevatory for Doug at the end of the day. Apparently, Ager is famous for it's clear skies.

Ager was our last attempt to see as much of Spain as we could. In my opinion, it felt like a horrible waste to spend our last day at such a low quality area. Although I hated the climbing, I still felt fortunate to be there.

The climbing was over, and my thoughts shifted towards home and the familiar. Maybe the next time I go to Shelf, I will think about Ager, and remember how beautiful climbing is and how lucky I am.

Wargasm 5.12b PG13

2012-01-05T20:23:00.001-07:00

On Monday, Joe Mills and I checked out a fully bolted, 2 pitch, open project called Wargasm. It's located above the Mickey Mouse Wall in a very obscure corridor on the East Ridge. Even with the new guidebook, it took us about two hours to reach the base of this route because we got lost countless times. In fact, we contemplated bailing a couple of times because the approach was so involved.

Since we were lost, I took a picture of the view from a small, snowy ledge on the East Ridge.

The route goes up the blocky rock to a nice ledge with a midway anchor. The second pitch follows the black arete in the upper middle of the picture below.

Although the first pitch has solid rock, it is extremely dirty so we pulled past the bolts to reach the upper pitch. If cleaned, the first pitch could be around 5.11+. Here's Joe at the start of the second pitch.

Joe near the top of the second pitch.

Close up of second pitch.

The upper pitch is a very technical climb which is peppered with small edges, and pebbles with the occasional arete move and a thin crux in the middle. After working the moves, we both sent on our second go and decided it was around 5.12b PG13(because of the placement of the 2nd bolt). Although it wouldn't increase the difficutly this could be led in one long 180 foot pitch.

With the sun quickly fading, we decided it would be much easier to rappel than go back the way we came.

The view from the East Ridge Corridor alcove.

Joe figuring out our escape plan.

Looking up at the second pitch of Wargasm.

Joe on the ground and me getting ready to rappel. I hate rappelling!

I am very impressed with the motivation and effort it took to equip this route and would love to know who installed it.

So if you are looking for a very obscure route, or want to better our style and redpoint the whole route, go check out Wargasm!

Sant Llorenc de Montgai

2011-12-27T11:52:00.001-07:00

Since we left Barcelona late, we decided to check out Sant Llorenc de Montgai on our way up to Terradets. We scouted this area out a few days earlier and were excited to check out the steep, brown caves at the top of the hill.

The right cave.

Another view.

The amazing view. Arguably better than the climbing.

Here are some shots from the day. Ted on Patiasso al Pallaso 7c+. I never complain about polished routes, but this route is slimy! Looks way better than it climbs- probably because I am a sucker for tufas.

This climber really, really, really likes brushes! Four brushes held to his chalkbag by the elastic from an old pair of underwear.

The frustratingly crowded left cave. Why aren't these people at Terradets?

Unknown Spanish climber on Montse la Traviesa 7c.

Tired of waiting for the good routes, Ted got on this crumbly 7c.

Of course, there was poop everywhere. This was directly below the route Ted is trying above.

Although we had fun and were glad we explored another crag, we all agreed that our time would have been better spent at Terradets. However, if this was in Boulder, we would shamelessly climb there.

Barcelona

2011-12-20T10:43:00.000-07:00

Despite two Iphones and five college degrees, we still drove around in circles trying to find our hotel in Barcelona. Eventually, we parked our cars, and checked into our hotel.

I love alleys(you never know what you will find around the corner). Fortunately, Barcelona is full of them! Here are some of the things I found...

Video of the inside of a huge cathedral.

We also strolled some bigger streets, like the La Rambla. Apparently, this is the pickpocket capital of Europe. Despite looking very American and touristy, nobody got ripped off. Probably because we look so burly and tough!

There is also a very impressive market just off the La Rambla.

One night we hiked to the top of a huge hill to see Gaudi's Parc Guell. Here's the view.

On Alan's last night in Spain, we went out for a nice meal.

Ted even got a haircut. No more Muy Senior.

After a few days, we got restless,

and felt the familiar tug of climbing. So we packed up, and headed back to the promise land.

Goals for 2012

2011-12-08T12:30:00.001-07:00

Well, it's a bit pat the holiday season but the present is always a good time to reflect on past accomplishments and dream of future goals. Usually, I privately make some goals and then quickly fall into an unfocused and comfortable routine. This year, I thought that if I shared my philosophy on setting goals and posted them on the internet, I would be more likely to stay on track.

Rule # 1- Brainstorm

Decide what you want out of climbing. If you are an all around climber, you will probably have separate goals for sport, traditional, multi-pitch, bouldering, and maybe even the gym. If you are specialized, such as a boulderer, your list may be shorter.

Rule #2- Time Frame

Make short, medium, and long term goals. These goals can range from a day to 10 years or more.

Rule #3- Be Specific, and Realistic

Goals should be measurable and attainable. Such as "I want to climb 12a". If you simply say I want to climb harder, how will you know when you have reached your goal?

Rule #4- Write Your Goals Down and Keep Them Visible

Writing down your goals makes them more concrete and physical. Put the list somewhere you will see it daily- at work, in the car, by your bed, etc. This will help you stay mindful of your goals.

Rule #5- Review, Revise and Be Patient.

Evaluate your goals periodically. If you achieve a goal too soon, make it a bit harder. Also don't be afraid to change or eliminate goals that aren't productive, realistic, etc. Remember to be patient- especially with long term goals.

Rule #6- Have a plan.

Hopefully, each goal builds upon the next to help you reach those long term goals. However, this approach requires a plan. For example, if you want to achieve a personal best in bouldering and routes, it makes more sense to focus on the bouldering goal first, and then apply your new power to routes- instead of the other way around.

So, after a short brainstorming session, here are my 2012 goals. Of course, my #1 goal is to have fun. Feel free to give me a hard time if I appear to be slacking off.

Sport Climbing

Short Term

Second Go 13c

Onsight 13a

Medium Term

Redpoint Planet X 14a
Climb three 13d's this year.

Long Term
Onsight 13b

Climb 14b

Traditional Climbing

Short Term

Do two 13a traditional routes this year.

Medium Term
Climb The Five Year Plan 13c.

Long Term

My climbing manager(Ben Collett) and I need to discuss this...

Bouldering

Short Term

The Right Graham Arete V10.

The Amendment V10

Medium Term

The Hug Right V11

Long Term

Boulder V12

Gym

Short Term

Onsight 12d (1/3/12)

Climb 13b in a day

Boulder V9 (2/9/12)

Hangboard with 45 pounds

2-4-6-8-10 on A (2/1/12)

Medium Term

Onsight 13a

Climb 13c

Boulder V10

Hangboard with 60 pounds

2-4-6-8-10 on A with 5 pounds

Long Term

2-4-6-8-10 on A with 10 pounds
Win the world cup!

Travel

Go to at lease 5 new areas such as The Frying Pan, The Narrows, Independence Pass, Newlin Creek, Mill Creek, Ceuse, and Red River Gorge.

Community Service

Replace the hardware on Paris Girl.

Establish a new sport route in Rifle.

For fun, I will try to return to this list and highlight the goals I accomplish as the year progresses.

Terradets- Part 1

2011-12-07T10:04:00.000-07:00

Ham is huge in Spain. We saw this poor javelina being proudly displayed in the town center of La Granadella on our way to Terradets.

There were lots of people(mostly old men) talking and respectfully investigating the wild pig.

Then there was the American...

After getting lost in Llieda, and we finally made it to the foothills of the Pyranees.

In Camarasa we stopped for lunch at a small, yet busy restaurant.

In the spirit of adventure, we ordered butter and garlic escargot as an appetizer.

Once the aioli sauce showed up, Ted really got his snail on! Loose Canon wasn't so excited about snails.

Seth had Rabbit. I guess it tasted like chicken.

Doug, inspired by the javelina kill in La Granadella, had pigs feet.

This picture makes me want to puke!

During lunch we looked through the Lleida climbing guidebook and decided to check out Sant Llorenc de Montgai, Camarasa, and Ager on our way to Terradets.

A stray cat was hanging out by the restaurant.

Stuffed with exotic food, we headed to Sant Llorenc de Montgai. We were surprised to find some great looking caves at the top of a small hill at the mouth of a canyon.

Here's a picture of the canyon.

There were some pretty plants.

And as usual, some poop right off the trail.

With the light fading, we quickly looked around, hopped back into the car and raced towards Camarasa. The climbing didn't look that great, but the river was amazing. Sorry, no pictures.

Then we zoomed over to Ager, and figured out where the turn off for the area was but didn't commit to the 6 mile drive from the main road because the it was almost dark and Ted was car sick and afraid that he might puke snails. Gross!

So, we drove to Cellars, and checked into our hotel.

Ted, pleased with the accommodations. Anything is better than the hotel in Margalef!

Doug doing a little pre-dinner gambling.

Bacalao- salted and dried cod.

Alan "Loose Canon" Bishop happy that he finally found some "normal" food.

The next morning we woke up to a heavy fog over the lake.

There were lots of fish feeding near the shore.

I found this climb on a bridge across the street from the hotel. It even has anchors!

After breakfast, we drove into the canyon and parked near the dam.

The approach to Terradets starts with a re-bar ladder.

After a few minutes of hiking, we were treated to our first view of this amazing wall. It's hard to tell from this picture, but the wall is about 100 feet tall and about 400 feet long.

This is the view from the cliff.

At the base, from the left side.

Me on L'Aviant 12a. I don't usually complaint about slippery limestone, but the first 10 feet of this thing was glass!

Me enjoying some great tufas a bit higher on L'Aviant.

Psyched was very high and since it was Alan's last climbing day, we threw ourselves at route after route until absolute darkness. In fact, Ted had to leave a few draws on his final route because he couldn't see the feet he needed to get to the anchors. And Alan gave a great effort on his final route of the trip but pumped off right at the top as the sun completely disappeared.

With 9 days left, we had found the promise land! Climbing, however, would have to wait because we had to drive Alan to Barcelona. It was time to trade dirt, rock and tufas, for museums, architecture, and culture.

Thanksgiving

2011-11-25T20:52:00.001-07:00

Before leaving for Spain, Ben and I started joking about me giving him the password to this blog and letting him write my trip update. That never happened, but the idea stuck and since we had some time over the Thanksgiving weekend we tried it. So here goes the first guest entry!

Thanksgiving. My favorite time of year. We get to eat, eat some more, loosen our belts, eat some more and enjoy the muffin top rolling over our skinny jeans.

Luckily, I am on the Western Slope, at the Collett's new place in Marble. Here is the view from one of their windows.

Ben whipping up some Mexican French Toast, while enjoying the view of Chair Mountain.

After breakfast, we drove about an hour north and attempted to work off some of the lard at a rather warm sunny locale that the locals call something like poo.

The energizing sound of engine brakes combined with a nagging cold, and the fitness gained from Spain propelled me to the top of my send of the year, The Long Haul 13a. Lungs burning and barely able to stand when I got back to the ground, Ifelt like it was truly climbing "a muerte".

Alas, the snow came in before I could flash Gutless Wonder 14b. I am not sure whether it is even worth coming back for it as the send is a foregone conclusion.

Here are some pictures from the day. Ben warming up on Traditional Values 5.7, a great bolted slab crack on the Lower Wall.

Ben on Urban Cowboy 12a.

Ben resting below the final crux of Urban Cowboy.

Warming down on Stay True 11b, a short, technical slab on perfect rock.

A cold, but happy Leah looking forward to a warm car.

The next day was a huge change of pace. We climbed the space between the rocks at a remote, and obscure area called Escalante Canyon.

Captain Smith's Cabins. Built around 1900.

Turkeys.

Cool dilapidated shack.

We occupied the part of the space time continuum where you properly experience both the earth and the air. We were the fire. It was a return to the roots of mankind with an annual trip to the desert.

Norie on the brutally sandbagged S Crack 10+. Watch out for the wideness at the top!

With Thanksgiving over, it was time to start thinking about Christmas!

Leah on Pumping for Passion 11+. A perfect 90 foot lieback corner.

Moomin sighting!

What a great Thanksgiving weekend!

Margalef

2011-11-23T12:39:00.001-07:00

I spent most of the picturesque 4 hour drive from Rodellar to Margalef trying not to puke every time we went around tight turn or stopped suddenly. We rolled in around 3PM on November 1st(Day of the Dead), noticed a big party at the community center and quickly found our hotel, El Tres Pins,

which was oddly decorated(They had a couple of mounted Javalina heads),

a bit ghetto(they had a vending machine that kids could get lighters from),

and didn't allow Wentworth(sorry Matt),

but seemed quiet.

After unpacking, we strolled the quaint, hilly streets

and checked out the Refugio/Hostel, where you can buy a Margalef climbing guidebook for 15 Euro.

They had some old school graffiti style climbing art at the Refugio.

This one kind of looks like me...

Life was good.

Until that night, when we sat down for dinner and realized that every evening, El Tres Pins morphs from a quiet sanctuary to a mad house complete with horrible food(like pig cheek),

paper thin walls, springy beds, slamming doors, and hoards of people that crank the television so loud you can barely think(or have a conversation).

Plus, that Day of the Dead party I mentioned earlier, turned into a rave that blared all night long. Until Doug stormed out of the hotel at 5:30AM, walked across town and told half a dozen teenagers to shut it down. Go Doug!

Bleary eyed, we headed up the canyon and got out first view of this unique and stunning area.

After a short uphill approach, we reached the Racos de les Tenebres sector and got out first taste of Margalef climbing. We warmed up on a couple of tweaky vertical 11's, and then moved down the hill to a steeper wall.

Here are some of the best pictures of me on a route called La Corva de la Felicitat 12d.

And Ted on Magic Festival 12d.

At the end of the day, Seth and I decided to try a 13b called Sativa Patatica. This route follows the curving crack in the picture ab was one of the best routes of the trip! Here are a couple of Seth.

And me on the same route.

After another horrible meal and a tough night at El Tres Pins, we went to the Finestra Wall. This is one of the premier sector at Margalef and the crowds were crazy! I tried El Fustigador 13c, and decided it was too hard to redpoint in a day, so I spent the rest of the day trying to onsight without much luck.

With rain in the forecast, and fully aware that more terrible food and rough nights at El Tres Pins awaited if we stayed, we decided to flee Margalef and drive North to Terradets.

Rodellar- Camino, Ventanas, Surgencia and more Grand Boveda

2011-11-18T12:07:00.001-07:00

The next few days were spent checking out the different walls at Rodellar and set the tone for the rest of the trip. There would be no projecting on this trip. We were on a mad dash to see as many walls as we could!

First we checked out the aptly named Ventanas(Windows) Wall. This area is home to the classic El Delphin 13a, which climbs through the belly of the right arch in the picture below.

Below is a close up of the arch. If you look closely, you can see the monastery on the hill in the backgroud of the first photo.

A close up of the same Monastary. I really wish we'd had time to hike up there.

After warming up, we all tried El Delpin. Here's Seth crushing.

Here's a couple of me.

Seth and I also tried another unbelievable route called A Crabita 13b. This route follows the black streaks up an overhanging blunt arete feature on perfect tufa pinches to a crux at the end and some easy but very pumpy climbing to the top. I was tired from all the other climbing and had to climb "a muerte" to get this one done.

The next day, we decided to warm up properly(and see another wall!), so we went to the Camino Crag, a pretty, slightly overhanging wall with very slippery routes ranging from 10c to 12b. Below is a picture of Ted enjoying a 10d at the right end of the wall.

From the Camino Crag you can also see how El Delphin got it's name.

Since the Grand Boveda is so good, we decided to return. Unfortunately, things were still very wet. However, this didn't stop us from finding some great routes. After hunting around, I decided to try El Sepes 13b. This route climbs a very big tufa past a bush, to a large roof and then continues up the headwall to a runout finish. Since I was tired from the day before, this was another "a muerte" ascent for me.

I also saw my first extreme mullet. I'd heard stories about the abundance of funky hairdos in Spain, but nothing could have prepared me for this...

It was the first of hundreds and I wanted to take pictures of them all, but it just felt rude. I am currently growing my hair out so I can return to Spain with a proper mullet.

We also watched Chelsea Rude battle for a redpoint on Geminis 14a. Here are a couple of videos of her last try on the route(I stopped filming during rests). Keep in mind that she's about 6 days on, tried the route about 3x's a days and has been falling off the last hard move of this 30+ meter route for a couple of days. Plus, she never used ibuprofin! This girl is tough!

A little higer!

So close!!!

Since the Grand Boveda was soaked, and we had heard so much about La Surgencia, we decided to check out yet another crag on our last day in Rodellar. The climbs are up to 50 meters long and about 35 or 40 degrees overhanging. Here's a picture, with a finger for scale.

A closup of the right side.

Most of the stuff was a bit too hard to do in a day, so we stuck to "shorter, slabbier" routes. With the clouds rolling in and rain forcasted for the next few days, we made the bittersweet decision to leave Rodellar and seek dry rock to the East in Margalef.

Rodellar- Getting there and the Grand Boveda

2011-11-16T10:53:00.001-07:00

With sprirts high,

we flew to Madrid(Doug a little restless),

picked up our cars(Seth might be trying to figure out how to reverse),

figured out how to get to Rodellar(Alan looking overwhelmed),

and started driving(saw lots of anatomically correct bull silhouettes).

I hadn't even been in Spain for a day and I was already starting to miss the good old USA. Thankfully, there was something to make me feel a little more are home.

Since we were all delirious because it was 4A.M. Boulder time, we stopped in Guadalajara(Spain) and got some much needed coffee and pastries.

After 5 hours of driving, we finally made it to Rodellar and checked into the Valle de Rodellar. This is a new hotel/restaurant/grocery store that is about 20 minute hike from the first climbing areas at Rodellar.

With evening setting in, we went for a hike and saw the sleepy village of Rodellar,

the climbing (here is a video of the Grand Boveda).

and our first close up look at the rock. Tufas!!!

We also ran into some friends from Boulder- Kynan, and Chelsea.

I was also shocked by the strong odor of poop that wafted about the crag and the copious amount of toilet paper just 5 feet off the trails. Rodellar needs a composting toilet!

The next day we went back to the Grand Boveda and did a stunning parallel tufa route called Sopas de Ajo 12c.

Here's Ted "Muy Señor" Lanzano, lovin' his first taste of Spanish tufas.

Some of the other guys warmed up on Commander Coña 12c. Here is a Seth Sandford on the lower half. Apparently this is a rough warm up

After warming up, it started raining really hard and the tops of almost all the routes got soaked, so we were forced to try whatever was dry. So we got on another amazing tufa route with a bouldery lip/mantle crux called Nanuk 12d. Here are some pictures of Ted midroute,

and Alan "Loose Cannon" Bishop at the crux.

Seth also made an impressive ascent of a "short" 13b and I tried Colliseum 13b, but wasn't able to get to the top because it was wet. With the light fading and the rain still coming down, we hike back to the hotel, ordered paella(which probably took over an hour to get to the table) and got our first taste of how long things can take in Spain.

SPAIN!!!

2011-10-21T12:09:00.007-06:00

I am taking a 3 week trip to sample some European limestone. We fly into Madrid and will drive North to Rodellar.

After 5 days, we will drive East to Terradets and stay there for about a week.

The last week of the trip will be spent at Margalef.

Then we drive back to Madrid and fly home. That's the plan, but I may fall in love with the blue streaked walls and never come back...

Ten Sleep

2009-09-11T09:38:00.016-06:00

Lately, I've had no interest in my usual Summer routine of going to Rifle every weekend, and obsessing over projects. With an entire world to explore, this seems extremely stale, and a bit pathetic. So this Summer, I've made a huge effort to visit new areas. Sometimes I'm disappointed by what I find, but most of the time I am pleasantly surprised.
For Labor Day Weekend, I ventured up to Wyoming and climbed at Ten Sleep. As always, I was impressed with the state's natural beauty, and the huge stretches of untouched land. Located about 60 miles west of Buffalo, Ten Sleep Canyon runs East to West with huge, tan limestone walls forming it's North and South rims. The climbing is reminiscent of Shelf Road, but the rock quality, movement and setting are all easily twice as good. Be prepared for slabs, and gently overhanging walls, peppered with very small pockets, sharp edges and highly technical movement.
Matt Kelly on Happiness is Slavery- 12bRoxanne Raymundo on EKV(Exo-Atmospheric Kill Vehicle)- 12c

Although we only had three days, and only visited a handful of areas in the canyon, here's what we concluded...

1. On sunny days, it's difficult to warmup/climb on the South facing walls before noon. The only place we found was a small corner of the Super Erratic area.

2. Since it's such a large area, it's important to plan out what routes you want to try and what areas you want to go to.

3. It's easy to get lost on the approaches.

4. It's easy to get lost trying to find the right parking area. The guidebook fails to mention mileage or landmarks, and most of the area pictures are taken from the old road, not Highway 16, which leads to confusion.

5. Although the guidebook's quality system is helpful in determining what routes to try, sometimes it's better to simply climb on what looks good.

6. Bring finger tape!

If you come to Ten Sleep, be prepared to get lost and be confused. This is partly because it is such a huge area, and partly because the guide book is poorly written. If you are unsure about something, save yourself an hour of chaos and talk to somebody- you'll be glad you did. Here are some things the guide book failed to mention.

CAMPING
Camping can be found along the old, dirt road that parallels Highway 16. We stayed at the bottom of the canyon, by the river on our first night, but woke up and discovered that our site was surrounded by poison ivy and broken glass. The best camping we found was at the top of the canyon. There is NO running water, garbage pickup or bathroom facilities in the canyon.

TEN SLEEP
The town of Ten Sleep is about 15 minutes west on highway 16 from the bottom of the canyon. It has NO grocery store, but offers a gas station/convenience store(their version of a grocery store), two bars(where you can purchase Bud or Coors beer to go), and houses around 400 people.

In general, Ten Sleep is a great place to climb- the routes are fun, the camping is free, and the area is beautiful. Just be aware that climbing in Ten Sleep is only half the experience.

Equinox

2009-08-24T18:08:00.012-06:00

In late July, I went home for a week to help my parents move and attend a wedding. While I was home I also caught up with some old friends, and did a little climbing at a "new" area called Equinox.
Most of the crag is represented in this picture.

Although I'm not sure about the story behind the crag's name, this little area, located near Mt. Vernon, is a great Summer sport climbing area that houses about 30 routes between 5.9 and 5.13+. Metamorphic in nature, the rock offers a sustained style of climbing with lots of square cut edges, and features that appear right where you need them. Enough with the description, here are some picutres(sorry about the date stamp- I took these with my parents' camera).

Paul Tomilson on a really nice 12+. Sorry, don't remember the name of the climb.

Jeff Parmenter on Baby on Board-13b. This is a super nice climb with increasingly diffcult moves to a very sharp and crimpy finish. Wish I had more time to finish. Oh well, I guess I will have to go back someday...

Here's Ben Gilkeson on Skip it or Clip it- 12c. This was probably the prettiest climb at the Equinox. This 80foot route goes up the cleanest part of the wall following a sequence of utterly perfect crimps and features. Really wish I had gotten on this thing!
Here's another picture of Ben on the same climb. Are those Dockers you are wearing?

Here's me on The Groove Tube Full-13a. Start with a great 12b, but before cutting right to the anchors, keep going up, and bust left around the arete, and over final roof. Like everything else at Equinox, I was really impressed with the quality of this line. So much fun!
Another picture of the same route.
Moving left around the arete. The next move is the crux, followed by a really engaging sequence to the top.

So that's Equinox. Thanks a bunch to Ben, Paul, Erich, Jeff, and Jake for showing me around. You guys are great!

4th of July Adventures

2009-07-13T12:48:00.011-06:00

I hate the 4th of July. Ever since I hurt myself with a sparkler when I was 10, the holiday has left a bitter taste in my mouth. Not to mention the crazy, drunk, justified pyromaniacs that run around blowing up everything in the name of freedom. It feels like the entire nation's IQ drops about 30 points for a day, which makes me want to hide under the bed like all the dogs and cats until it's over. Being human, I chose to hide in Clear Creek instead. Lee and I headed to a boulder I recently "discovered", and climbed some virgin rock. We started with a really nice V3 that starts on a left facing feature, heads to a pocket and then ends up a high but easy rail. We didn't name any of this stuff- we are too lazy. We'll take suggestions...
Then we moved to a line to the right, and after a couple of tries figuring out the start, established a really amazing v4/5 highball. It starts on a big obvious jug, moves to a big sloper that juts out from the wall and follows a large lieback up and right to the top. Amazing!!!
We spent the rest of the day flailing on a low start to the above problem. It involves powerful liebacking, no feet, and a hard crimp move that brings you to the sloper of the V4. I will definitely be returning to finish this up in the Fall.
Now for the juicy stuff. Just to the right of the V4, there is a very hard project- possibly V14 or harder. A bulge, with perfect crimps, minimal feet and a nice landing. Around the corner are 2 or 3 more short(2-5 moves), but very hard problems on sculpted pinches and edges. I know I should have gotten some photos. You'll just have to take my word, these things look cool. Any takers???

I am constantly amazed that boulders like this are still being "discovered". Just when you think the Front Range is tapped, another little gem gets unearthed and the psyche continues. AMEN!

Here's a couple of abstract images of the Boulder fireworks show.

Everything But Climbing In Maple

2009-07-05T16:41:00.017-06:00

Last week Lee and I went to Maple for a 9 day trip. For the most part we had great weather. Unfortunately, Lee's neck was severely tweaked for 4 days, which destroyed the morale during the middle of the trip.
Although she could barely look down, and sneezing nearly brought her to tears, she selflessly did the 25 minute hike to the Pipe Dream and belayed me. She eventually found a way to cope with the pain...
On our rest days we hiked to the top of the Pipe Dream and enjoyed the wildlife...
the view
and may have seen the future of Maple Canyon climbing.
This cave is in the right fork, about 100 feet off the ground. From our perspective, it looks about twice as big as the Pipe Dream. For some reason, Lee was terrified by the formation.
Actually, a grasshopper caught her off gaurd.

On another rest day, we checked out the Morman Miracle Pageant in Manti, Utah. Basically, the LDS puts on a huge, week-long theater production depicting the story of the Book of Morman.
They set up about 4000 folding chairs on the temple lawn...
get all the actors in costume by 8pm so they can walk around an interact with the crowd...
and start the show at 9:30pm...
As you can see, the production involves hundreds of actors. It's actually quite entertaining, but I have to admit that I was totally confused by the story. It was hard to keep track of all the charachters, feuding tribes and what point within 2500BC-1830Ad they existed.

Of course, the event had it's critics. This guy is a christian, who was telling all the Mormans that they were going to hell. Needless to say, he had some people worked up, but for the most part, they politely debated with him until the show started.
Sorry there aren't more climbing pictures, but honestly, the nonclimbing activities were way more interesting on this trip. Oh yeah, I sent the Wyoming Sheep Shagger and Lee did her first 12b within 24 hours on our last day of the trip. Gotta love the high pressure, last minute send. It's always sweeter.

I'm Back!

2009-06-03T09:43:00.010-06:00

Danny Robertson on Achilles

To anyone still looking at this blog...

I haven't been feeling very creative, or motivated lately. However, I am going to start making an effort to update my blog, with a little something every week.

A couple of weeks ago, I went to Sinks Canyon. I love that place. Lander is nice, the camping is free, the canyon is beautiful, and the climbing is damn fun. Lots of steep, technical routes with amazing pockets(some more natural than others) and edges right where you need them. I will definitely be going back there this Summer. I will try to post some pictures later.

Last weekend, I went to Rifle. Love that place too. This year will be my 9th season! My relationship with the canyon has changed a lot since I first moved to Boulder in 2002. Blinding obsession has been replaced with a mature, warm, calm passion for the canyon. Thankfully, new routes are going up all the time. Last weekend, I did a new route that Danny Robertson put up last Summer called Achilles. Originally rated 14a, this route follows the lip of a huge overhang on the opposite side of the canyon from the Arsenal. The route follows a stunning line, and features lots of steep climbing, a bit of traversing, and a very cool arete finish. After fumbling on it for a few days, I gleaned some very useful beta from Steve Hong, that allowed me to put it all together. Steve Hong also redpointed the route just before me. Nice work!!!

Danny Robertson on Achilles

After thinking about it and reading the latest TNB article my honest opinion is that this route is a soft 13d. Not nearly as soft as The Bride of Frankenstein, but definitely easier than Living In Fear, or Simply Read. Either way, it's a super fun route, and a great addition to Rifle. Thanks for all your hard work Danny!

Lumpy Ridge- Podophile

2008-12-08T12:28:00.003-07:00

Here is a video of Dan Smith climbing on Podophile V9, at Lumpy Ridge. Although he doesn't send, it's a nice video, and it gives you an idea of what the mantle is like. Apparently, Tommy Caldwell did a sit start to this problem.

Podophile V9

Blast from the Past- Wingless Victory Spring 2008

2008-11-29T10:21:00.010-07:00

Here are some pictures of me on Wingless Victory 13b, in Eldorado Canyon. This bolted arete is just right of the 4th pitch(Bombay chimney) of The Naked Edge. Super exposed(the ancient ring bolt don't ease the mind), highly technical, and powerful, this pitch is amazing. The photos and toprope are courtesy of Justin Sjong. This is high on my list of local routes to do. Unfortunately, it's hard to find partners.
Trying to get to the first rest.

Almost there...Resting about half way up the pitch.
Getting ready for the crux- a nasty pinch move on the arete.

After climbing this pitch, we decided that it would be fun to try the alternate 12a bolted finish to the Naked Edge. The pitch completely kicked my ass! I hung all over it, and didn't even do some of the moves. It just wouldn't be an Eldo experience without being humbled.

Mcgyver watch out!

2008-11-19T16:15:00.005-07:00

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Special edition knife, perfect for collectors
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Weight: 2 lbs, 11 ounces
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Lifetime warranty

It even has a keyring so you can carry it on your belt. All for just $1000!

Fun in the Flatirons

2008-11-14T08:50:00.016-07:00

Yesterday, Tony Yao, Luke Kearns, and I skipped work and headed up to the East Ironing Board(EIB). Tony and I were interested in trying Slave to the Rhythm 13b, and Luke was eying a route called Farniente 12a. The EIB is a small, Southwest oriented formation that sits just behind the Third Flatiron. Considering the size of the crag, it host a very impressive collection of climbs ranging from 5.7 to 5.14. Enough about the description, here are some pictures of me on Slave to the Rhythm.
Doing the first crux

Exiting the first crux.

Me loving the biggest cobble on the route. Apparently, this thing is nicknamed the Skinhead.

Here are some pictures of Luke Kearns, on Farniente. This is a really nice bolted slab. The climbing is more about faith and friction, than pulling.
Luke looking for the first bolt.

LK pulling through the crux

Although the Flatirons form the backdrop for Boulder, there are days that I don't even look at them. Places like the EIB remind me that this area is not to be taken for granted.

Blast From the Past-Minturn Bouldering Spring 2008

2008-10-31T09:32:00.033-06:00

Unfortunately, I don't have anything cool to write about, so here are some bouldering pictures from Minturn.
The first set of pictures were taken at Redcliff. Surrounded by Aspens, this area features about 10 boulders with problems ranging from VB to V8. Despite an easy 5 minute approach, great stone, fun problems, and a beautiful setting, this area remains highly overlooked.

Lee warming up

Alex on a nice V6

Lee topping out the same V6. This mantle is HARD!

Me on another V6. The first move was definitely the hardest.

Lee on yet another V6.

The next series of pictures were taken at an area near Redcliff called the Aircraft Carrier. Tucked next to a small talus field, this spot consists of three large boulders with about 30 problems total. It's a small area, but it's much steeper than Redcliff, and has problems ranging from VB t0 V11. The problem below is called the Cool Arete V9. It lives up to its name!

Unfortunately, the problem is a bit contrived at the end. Either exit out left to the vertical rail, or continue up the arete.

Although neither area is spectacular, sometimes all you need is to get out of town, see a new area, and have a little adventure. If this is what you need, check these places out!

Blast From the Past- Eldorado Canyon, Spring 2008

2008-10-14T10:03:00.013-06:00

Here are some pictures of the Schultz Arete(A.K.A. Quigong) V11. This is a very convenient problem with very sharp crimps, a fairly bad landing and an annoying rock that you have to avoid touching at the start of the problem. Despite all the cons, this thing seriously exploits my crimp weakness, and for that it's definitely on my list as the temps cool down.

Bare Bones Camping

2008-10-07T14:10:00.012-06:00

I hate paying for camping. The idea of paying money for a picnic table, a fire pit and a manicured tent site just seems wasteful and defeats the point of going camping in the first place. It's not just about the money- although that is a large factor. It's about having a unique experience. It's about communing with nature, and getting off the grid. It's about escaping. Most of the time, my quest for free camping is rewarded with animal sitings, serenity, and a sense of satisfaction you get when you earn something the hard way. However, my stubborn pursuit of free camping has also backfired, leading to some terrifying nights and creepy situations. Recently, I mustered up the courage to revisit a visceral place that I stumbled upon while searching for "new" free camping near Rifle.

Last Fall, I spent a bunch of time in Rifle. Being late in the season, with temps dropping below freezing, I opted to stay at a free, but undesirable place called the Corral. Visible from Grass Valley Road, and instantly muddy if it rains, the Corral offers no protection from ornery locals, or opportunistic thieves. So one evening after climbing, I decided to look for alternative options. I started by going up a dirt road on the opposite side of the road, to the East of the Corral. The road was too rough for my Honda Civic, so I quickly turned around. As the light faded, I drove up another bumpy dirt road for about 50 feet until my headlights hit this...

a pile of deer and elk carnage. Totally freaked out, I did a three point turn as fast a I could and went back to the relative safety of the Corral. With my imagination going crazy, I unsuccessfully tried to sleep. Since that day, I have never been able to enjoy the Corral quite as much.
The place seems more wild, and less relaxing. Every sound has significance. I am on edge. In some strange way, I think this is what I like most about free camping. I want to feel more vulnerable. I want to feel the mystery and power of nature. I want to face my fears. That way, I won't take the next day or the money I save for granted because in a way I earned it.

Rifle- Fall Pressure

2008-09-23T17:24:00.030-06:00

Fall is here! Along with colder temps, amazing colors, and shorter day, there's also a certain amount of tension and stress to finish up projects before the walls start seeping, and the weather turns bad.
Not everyone feels the pressure. There has been a lot of talent in the canyon lately. Here are some pictures of Dave Graham working The 7PM TV Show- 14a.
Although he has been ripping through most of the testpeices at Rifle, this one seems to be giving him a bit more trouble. It should be interesting to see his comments on this route when he sends it.
On to a subject that really annoys me- PARKING!!!
There is a serious lack of parking in Rifle, and it doesn't help when people inconsiderately park like this...
Obviously, not everybody cares...
but if everyone did their part, we could maximize the parking, and represent the climbing community as a responsible user group in the park. Remember, we are guests, climbing in Rifle is a privilege, and your actions affect everyone.

To lighten things up, here are some pictures of a really cool water spout, located to the left of the Bauhaus Wall.
There's actually a route just to the right of this water spout. In the picture above, you can see a couple of bolts to the right of the spout. The route seems to be fully equipped, with the exception of two bolts at the start. Lee theorizes that the equippers accidentally drilled into a water pocket in the limestone, releasing the water trapped behind the rock. After this, she thinks they abandoned the route. Who knows...
Here's a close up of the hole. Is this a manufactured spout or not? Ethical debates about the future of water spouts are sure to arise.

Mahabone

2008-09-22T10:04:00.003-06:00

I finally managed to get the video of Rob Guinn sending Mahabone V6 at Mt. Evans, Area B. Enjoy.

Mahabone V6

Blast From the Past- Hueco 2004

2008-09-12T08:47:00.000-06:00

Here are some pictures I found from my month long trip to Hueco in 2004. The pictures were taken By Jackie Hueftle.
Crazy East Spur Maze formation.
Hueco Ranger's Station
Let's go climbing!!! I think this is Tschil.

Here's some rare documentation that I can actually climb. My ascent of Full Service V10, in sweat pants!!!
In an attempt to be less narcissistic, here's a couple of shots of other people...
Julie- our guide for East Mountain that day.
Leif- Crazy German Guy #1
Crazy Geman Guy #1 on Full Sevice V10.
Can't remember his name. Crazy German Guy #2
Jackie Hueftle
Seth Allred on Full Service V10.

Rifle Cleanup

2008-09-08T14:21:00.000-06:00

After a Summer of bouldering, it's time to switch gears. That's right, it's Rifle season! What an amazing climbing area. It's hard to express how lucky we are to have access to the area or how fun, beautiful, and awesome this place is. To make up for our lack of words and demonstrate our appreciation, the climbers organize an annual Rifle Cleanup. For one day every year, climbers pick up trash, and tackle a couple of improvement project. Then after a hard day of picking up trash, we have an after party. This year, the event took place on Sept. 5th. Here are this years Rifle Cleanup accomplishments:

-A terrace was built between Simply Read and Sometimes Always at the Project Wall to eliminate future erosion and make it safer to walk at the base of the wall.

-Two more parking spots were added at the Project wall.

-Two new parking spots were added at the Ruckman Cave.

-A suggested donation of $5 was collected to go towards rebolting efforts in Rifle.

The after party was great, except I didn't win anything in the raffle. Lots of food, Avery Beer, stickers, posters, and free gear. A huge thanks to all the Sponsors- Rock and Ice, La Sportiva, Avery Beer, Black Diamond, Prana, etc for supporting the event . Thankfully, I left before two dudes got up on a table, took their shirts off and started dancing with each other.

The Unbearable Camping Situation

2008-09-03T15:40:00.000-06:00

Let me start by saying there is something very creepy about most of the free camping in Squamish. Usually, you have to drive down some random dirt road for a quarter of a mile until you reach an extremely dark and heavily wooded clearing. As if seclusion and darkness aren't scary enough, most of the time there's an industrial scrap pile, a shack with shattered windows, a broken down bull dozer, or maybe an abandoned car lurking in the corner. Then you start thinking about the rumors of crazy drug addicts trolling Squamish in search of people to rob. And if your imagination or the druggies don't get you, there's always the bears.

So after looking at horror movie sets for half an hour, we finally found a quiet parking lot on the edge of town near a community of condos. Once I convinced Lee(and myself) that the place was perfectly safe, we went to sleep. Since we survived the first night, we decided to stay there again.

WHAM!!!

On our second morning at the parking lot we got woken up at 5:30am by a very loud noise. At first we thought somebody was harassing us, but after looking around, we found nobody. Then I started to look at what I assumed was a gas tank sitting about 30 feet from our car.

Straining to see in the dusk light, I sensed some movement coming from this object. Upon closer investigation I found that the gas tank was really a...
BEAR TRAP containing a newly captured BEAR!!! The loud noise was the trap door slamming shut.

If you look closely, you can see it's claws sticking out of the cage. They are just right of the yellow sign.

The look of a very unhappy Lee.

On a side note, that week three bears had been captured and killed because a person had been attacked by a bear. Hopefully this bear was simply transported further from civilization. Good luck buddy.

Tatonka

2008-08-29T12:16:00.000-06:00

Throughout the trip, I struggled to get and stay psyched, so Lee and I went online and looked for Squamish bouldering videos. Tatonka, was one of the first videos we found, and after watching it, my excitement was renewed- for a while. The problem is all about trusting your feet on horrible smears, wrestling with an awkward pinch/undercling and then making a strange cross over move to a large flake. From here the problem eases off but it's not over until you rock over the arete.

Below is video of me on Tatonka.

Tatonka V8

Wafer Thin

2008-08-27T19:36:00.000-06:00

Here is a video of Lee doing Wafer Thin V5, in the rain. For those of you who haven't seen this problem, it's a convex belly that slabs out near the top, with big feet and really small crimps. To finish you have to paw over the top using small patches of clean rock that are surrounded by thick mats of moss. Not an ideal problem to try in the rain. Anyways, undaunted and determined, she put this thing together in a couple of tries and scrapped her way to the top. Check out her left hand popping when she hit the finishing hold. Way to go Lee!!! You are my hero.

Wafer Thin V5

This Monkey's Gone To Heaven

2008-08-27T12:58:00.000-06:00

This Monkey's Gone To Heaven V7, is one of the proudest lines I did on the trip. It is unique because it doesn't feature a lip traverse, slopers, heel hooks, or a heinous top out. However, it does have one huge campus move to a semi decent edge, and then an airy finish over a funky landing.

Although you can't tell by watching the video, I barely did the campus move, and I somehow held on to finish it just before it rained for two days. What an amazing line!!!

This Monkey's Gone To Heaven V7

The Weasel

2008-08-26T19:22:00.000-06:00

The Weasel V8, is the pride and joy of my Squamish trip. This thing is HARD! It features shitty slopers, non-holds, fussy heel hooks, improbable arete holds, and a really frustrating finishing move. So classic!!!

I remember looking at this boulder problem 8 years ago and not even being able to comprehend how to do it. Now, thanks to the internet, I was able to figure it out. It's always cool to see some improvement- even if I owe it to technology.

I barely sent it- pay attention to my right hand slipping on the arete.

The Weasel V8.

Ahhh, Squamish.

2008-08-26T18:11:00.001-06:00

Ahhhh, Squamish. The land of impeccable granite, lush forests, amazing ocean views, and crackling, high voltage, cancerous powerlines. As far as bouldering, Squamish is the land of the lip traverse, the heinous topout, the heel hook, and the sloper. I hate crimps, but by the end to the trip I was fiending for some grips. I had a great time but a week was all my hamstrings, and psyche for lip traverses could handle.

The Cheif.

So before we got to Squamish, Lee hadn't climbed in 2 months, and I have to admit that once again, she impressed me with her natural strength...

and raw bouldering abilities.

Lee on Titanic V3.(sorry I can't flip it)

Actually, Lee climbed extremely well- finishing a handful of V3's, a couple of V4's and 2 V5's, which is better than I would have climbed if I hadn't touched rock or hung from my fingers for over 60 days. She definitely deserves the MVP award for this trip!

I on the other hand, have been bouldering all Summer. So I showed up with lofty goals, but got totally stomped. Instead of sending super hard, I projected what was super hard for me(read anything between V5 and V8). Here's a picture of me maxing out on the Hoop Wrangler V5. I never finished this one... can you say humbling?

A huge thanks to my parents for letting us borrow their car for the week. I also want to thank Ryan, Sam and Shannon for letting us borrow their pads for the week. Our trip wouldn't have been possible without their generosity.

The Quiz.

2008-08-26T17:39:00.000-06:00

So much for weekly posts. How about monthly updates? Let's start with a game. Based on this picture, what region of the US did I travel to last week?

Slugs are so cool!

Give up? The answer is the Northwest! Lee and I went to Seattle for a wedding, and decided to go bouldering in Squamish for a week. Since I'm originally from Seattle there was also lots of visiting family and other typical vacation activities like over-eating, sleeping in, and looking like a tourist despite the fact that I'm from the NW. Of course there was also lots of rain, gloomy weather, wildlife and climbing. So my next couple of posts will involve our trip to Canada. I hope you enjoy!

New Problems at Mt. Evans Area B

2008-07-11T12:14:00.000-06:00

A couple of weeks ago, a group of us went to Area B at Mt. Evans. Originally, we planned on trying Gorillas In the Mist V11, but we ended up establishing a couple very nice problems. The first problem, Mahabone, is located about 70 yards to the left of GITM moving slightly uphill. This double arete slab problem features tricky footwork, nice edges and some slappy compression moves on very cool arete slopers. After Rob Guinn sent it, a couple of key holds snapped off making it a bit harder. The final product, which starts on a low left hand sidepull, and the right hand grabbing the low arete is probably V6, and highly recommended. Here are some pictures.

Me slapping the left arete on Mahabone

Matt Battaglia spotting me on Mahabone

We also wandered into the talus field above GITM, and discovered a little roof with some semi-chalked up slopers. It looked like somebody had been there before, but the amount of cleaning that the problem required indicated that nothing had been established. The sit start is left hand on a sharp quartz crystal, and the right hand in a small seam, which sets you up to make a very cool move to a large hold with your left hand. From here, the problem moves left up the arete, using large slopers and blind heel hooks. Since I just bought a condo, I called it The Dead Pledge V7, in honor of my new mortgage. Yay debt!!! This problem can be found by heading straight up and slightly left from GITM into the talus for about 100 yards. The cave faces downhill. There is potential for some very hard variations to this problem that climb in from the right on the previously mentioned slopers. Here are a couple of pictures.

Me on Dead Pledge

Me on the finishing moves of Dead Pledge

Both of these problems get 3 out of 4 stars for quality. Hopefully others will enjoy these problems as much as we did. And for anybody interested, there is a lot of potential for new stuff. So get after it!!!

Mt. Evans Hangover

2008-06-24T16:37:00.000-06:00

It's Tuesday, and I still feel hungover from this weekend. My body aches, and my head feels fuzzy. I have been a useless zombie at work and at night I sit at home and guzzle water. No, I didn't drink too much! If I had, I would probably be recovered by now. My condition was caused by going to Mt. Evan on Sunday, hiking 3+ hours, climbing until I had nothing left, and sucking on thin air all day. As horrible as I feel, I would do it again in an instant.

We started the day at the Ladder V2, and slowly warmed up on some random problems. Then we moved on to a nice V7 arete behind Maker's Mark V5. After a bit of rest, and a short debate on where to go next, we headed to Gorillas in the Mist V11. This was the first time I had climbed on the problem and was not disappointed. This problem has amazing compression moves, and immaculate stone. It definitely has my vote for the best V11 in Colorado. With an hour of effort, and some beta, I was able to do all the moves. I think putting it all together will be the crux. I will definitely be going back soon!

The wind picked up and lightening cracked, but the rain never fell, so we packed up and hiked to the Hume boulder at Area B. This was the first time I had been to the boulder and was impressed by it's size, and the quality and variety of problems. I was also struck by the untapped potential of Area B. I ended up settling on Curiously Strong/Wrong, and the others tried a very cool V6 the the right. After a couple of tries, I stuck the first move of Curiously Strong, but decided to use the jugs to the left. I was told this is Curiously Wrong. It felt like V8 or so. Then I tried to haul my ass off the ground on the Hume Problem V10, which only resulted in some involuntary farts, and grunting. At this point, everyones skin was gone, and it was time to head home.

It was a great day and I can't wait to go back next weekend and get wasted again.

Vedauwoo 101

2008-06-16T20:21:00.000-06:00

Blogging, like climbing, takes discipline, and inspiration. Two things that I have been seriously lacking lately. This is reflected in the lack of posts, and my unfocused approach to climbing. My 2008 goal was to achieve a 70/30 ratio of bouldering to route climbing, with the ultimate goal of sending V12 and doing a V10 in a day, and then transitioning to sport climbing in the fall for a short season at Rifle.

Although I am still very focused on bouldering, I have been getting a little bored pebble wrestling over the last couple of weekends. It's gotten so bad that I even went to Vedauwoo, and will probably have scars on my hands and back for the rest of my life. Proof that a lack of focus is dangerous! Actually, I had a great time in Vedauwoo. I really enjoyed the scenery, ambiance, and wild feeling of the area. The climbing lore is thick, the history is interesting, and the climbing is amazing in that educational, humbling, exhausting, painfully unforgettable way. And the local characters... Well, the master himself, Bob Scarpelli, graced us with his very anti-Colorado, territorial, pissed off presence. Although he was abrasive, scary, and rude, I still have a lot of respect for his legacy, and dedication to the sport. I also have to respect his conviction for the area and the state, even if they are extremely biased. I even feel a little empathy for him. Compared to the 80's and 90's, I'm sure Vedauwoo feels more crowded than ever. Should he hate everyone from Colorado? Probably not, but whether we like it or not, he is the sentinel of Vedauwoo, futilely trying to stop change, and for that I wish him all the best.

This makes me think about my relationship with climbing. How much of my identity is defined by climbing and my achievements? What would I have if climbing was taken from me? What would I have if climbing was all I had? Would I be happy if my limit was 5.5? Definitely some scary questions, but necessary to retain a sense of reality in such an obsessive, all consuming sport. Hopefully, I will continue to find joy in climbing, and if I ever feel crusty and old I will think of Bob, and remember why I started climbing in the first place- for fun!!!

Reflections of an Old Man

2008-05-22T19:55:00.001-06:00

I turned 31 on Wednesday. I am undeniably established in my thirties. Despite living another year, I don't feel any older, or different than I did when I was 21. In fact, I feel stronger than ever, and I intend to continue improving for many years. Unfortunately, the reality is my bald head, growing wrinkles, and general disregard for current fashion betray the fact that I am no longer young. Especially by Boulder standards. That said, I have started to cling to the idea that you are only as old as you feel. Thankfully my gymnastics background has conditioned my muscles and joints to support this notion- for now... I have noticed that my body isn't exactly what it was ten years ago. I have to stretch more often, my metabolism has slowed down, and my fingers feel a bit more fragile from time to time. This doesn't bother me too much- a little prevention and self awareness never hurt. In the last couple of years I have also experienced serious performance slumps. Some of these periods have caused me to consider whether I had reached my peak and was doomed to plateau or get worse. Thankfully, I have always been able to snap out of it by changing my training, or finding some new motivation.

So along with trying to push my physical limits, I will also explore the notion that climbing, like age, is all about your mind set. A denial to give up and grow old. A commitment to improve, learn, adapt, remain curious, and find joy in the new and uncertain. An opportunity to travel, play in the dirt, be humbled, and remain young at heart. I will look to older climbers like Ben Moon, Fred Nicole, J.B. Tribout, and Yuji Hirayama to show me that age doesn't determine what you can accomplish. And when my body finally falls apart, I can proudly say that I never took a moment for granted.

Left Graham Arete

2008-05-20T14:15:00.000-06:00

Last Thursday, I finally finished the Left Graham Arete V11. The moment I pulled onto the wall, something felt different. The moves didn't feel easier- it was almost like I had finally convinced myself that it was possible. My foot didn't pop, I hit the holds perfectly, and 15 seconds later I found myself at the top in disbelief. I down climbed, and eventually realized that my success had come at a price. The small crimps had completely split my right pointer finger. Still glowing with victory, I happily accepted the sacrifice the problem demanded, and drove home.

Since my tip was destroyed, I spent the weekend doing non climbing related activities. Two days never felt soooooo long. Thank god for climbing!

Unfinished Eldo Projects

2008-05-13T21:28:00.001-06:00

This boulder is located below the Lower Peanut Wall in Eldorado Canyon. It features a large roof with one very hard project that moves along a slopey rail in the roof, joins a flake, and then ends with a heinous mantle. The chalk was added by Paul Robinson after I tipped him off about this problem. Despite his efforts this thing remains unclimbed, and looks like it would be at least V13. Here are a couple of pictures of the unfinished line.

If you continue up the talus field you reach the Upper Peanuts Wall, where you will encounter this boulder.

Colorado needs a V16 and this is it! The line starts with your left hand underclinging the roof and your right hand on a decent edge at head height on the face. Traverse left along the edge of the roof using small crimps and underclings until you hit a slippery pod at which point you climb upwards making some impossible moves to gain better holds before topping out at 20 feet. It seems appropriate that Colorado's first V16 is found in Eldo. Here are a couple of more pictures.

Since area requires a strenuous 20 minute hike to reach, this boulder problem has never been cleaned. That said, anyone willing to step out of the box and investigate this problem won't be disappointed.

Lee's Rehab

2008-05-13T17:12:00.000-06:00

About a month ago, Lee hurt something in her left palm trying Smokin' Joe at Joe's Valley. Ever since, we have been trying different things to rehab her hand. At first, our tactics involved no climbing, but gradually she's started to climb again- avoiding crimpers, and holds that separate her pinkie and left ring finger. Continuing her rehab, we went to the East Draw for a little finger friendly bouldering.

Just outside Eldorado Canyon, this is a great place for cold days because it's South facing, and at the top of a hill. The climbing is found on a long band of pebbly sandstone with a steeper section at the left side of the wall. Lee tried Pig Dog for a while, and between attempts we drank tea.

Although the rock isn't perfect, and none of the problems are amazing, we remained thankful to be outside, and enjoyed the unique view of Eldo.

Eventually, Lee's hand started to hurt, so I dropped her off at home, and I drove up Boulder Canyon to try the Left Graham Arete V11. I have been trying this thing randomly for about three years, but have always shown up without the prerequisite finger strength. For some reason, things felt different this time, and after shredding my tips on it for an hour, I surprised myself by falling off on the mantle! Unfortunately, it was getting dark and my tips were paper thin. So I went home with a glimmer of hope that with a little rest, and some new skin, my stubborness will payoff.

Sweet Success

2008-05-10T09:16:00.000-06:00

Climbing involves lots of failure. Ninety nine percent of the time we flail and struggle just for a fleeting moment of triumph. For most of us, this process yeilds no rewards or fame, we do it simply because we love the sport. Well for some reason, I have been having a lot of success lately. Two weeks ago, I completed the first ascent of The Holdup .13d. This 35 foot arete spanked me around for almost 2 years, until it finally let me redpoint it on April 27, 2008. Ben Collet showed me this obscure line in late 2006, and I immediately fell in love with the demanding moves, and technical nature of the route. Unfortunately, I found it hard to find parteners, appropriate weather, and the motivation to slog up the hill. Even on the victorious attempt The Holdup pushed me to my limit. A huge thanks to Mark Rolofson for cleaning and equipping this route way back in 2001.

I also recently finished Hardboiled V11. This overlooked boulder problem has great rock, intricate moves, and offers a nice independent line. Plus, being right off the road, it's super convenient as an after work project. This thing teased me for over 2 years- allowing me to get all the way to the final moves only to have my foot pop off while standing up for the finishing hold. Thankfully, my epic saga with this thing is over.

So thanks to the climbing gods for smiling upon me for a breif period of time. I will continue to be persistent, train hard, stay positive, and try my hardest. Hopefully they will notice my efforts, and allow me to taste sweet success again.

Unfinished Boulder Canyon Projects

2008-05-09T01:49:00.000-06:00

I was up at the Cage Free Boulder in Boulder Canyon yesterday and realized that there is a great unfinished line on the Cage Free Boulder. Basically, the line traverses left into Cage Free from the starting hueco of Surface Tension. With all the very strong talent that has visited this boulder, I am very surprised that this very logical linkup hasn't been polished off. The canyon could certainly use another V13. Any takers? Of course a discussion about uncompleted lines in Boulder Canyon wouldn't be complete without mentioning the huge roof that sits below cob rock. As one of the most obvious features in the canyon, this thing screams to be climbed! It seems crazy that such an amazing, unchipped, roadside project isn't teeming with people trying to send it. The center line looks like it has V14 potential, and a left start which links into the end of the center line looks like it would easily hit V12. So let's get busy people!

Taylor Bruce Roy- the man with three first names.

2008-05-06T13:11:00.001-06:00

When I was born, my parents unwittingly played a cruel joke on me. They honored some close friends and family by naming me Taylor Bruce Roy. Given the fact that this is a combination of three first names, people are constantly mixing up the order. When I was young this really annoyed me, but now that I am older, I find it amusing to try and guess if a person will mess it up or not.

Anyways, enough about my name, let's talk about this blog. In my wildest dreams I never thought I would have a blog. However, over the last year, I have slowly become addicted to reading other people's blogs and have concluded that it's only fair to join the madness. Mainly, I will talk about climbing, but I will also occasionally post about notable things going on in my life and those I love. First, I would like to say that I feel a little strange having a blog. Mostly because I have a hard time believing that my life and opinions are interesting enough for somebody else read. I also feel kind of weird talking about myself, but it is the age of selfless promotion, so I need to get over it. The goal is to post at least once every week. Anyways, I hope you enjoy it.